Italy Trip Day 11

May 22nd

Orvieto ended up being a very interesting stopping point on our way home. The town is built on the top of a butte made of volcanic rock. It dates back to the Etruscan times, but was later taken over by the Romans--and because it was practically unassailable, it was the last stronghold of the Roman empire. Although we didn't have time to see them, there is an extensive cave and tunnel network under the city that the former inhabitants of Orvieto dug out of the volcanic rock.

We did get to do a little bit of exploring through the old city, and saw many quaint and picturesque alleyways and houses.

We were also surprised to find out that Orvieto has a spectacular cathedral--similar to Siena's, but even more impressive, we thought.

The detail work--both the sculpture and inlaid mosaics were incredible!

Another thing Orvieto is famous for is its ceramics. We spent quite a while browsing the ceramic shops, and ended up finding the perfect souvenir of our Italy Trip--a set of oil and vinegar flasks. What I liked best about the pattern we found was that it had red poppies on it. Everywhere we went in Italy and Sicily we saw red poppies blooming! They just make me happy!

Once we left Orvieto, we made a beeline for Germany. We took a different mountain pass through Switzerland on the way back, and even though it was cloudy and a bit rainy, it was beautiful. We finally made it back home at about midnight--tired, but happy to be back home!

Italy Trip Day 10

May 21st

We only had two goals for the day. First--experience as much of Pompeii as we could. Second-- get as far north as possible. To help us with goal #1, we decided to forgo a visit to the grocery store that morning, and relied on the meager provisions we had left from the day before--peanuts, crackers, cheese, and water to drink. At least three of the four food groups were represented--our tomatoes would have rounded out the menu, but putting several squishy vegetables (well, fruits, really) in our backpack didn't sound like a very good idea.

Pompeii was fascinating, but I will refrain from submitting an hour's long slide show, and will just mention the highlights.

It was amazing to feel that we had stepped back almost 2000 years in history. We were constantly surprised at how many things were strange and different--but more surprised at how many things were very familiar.

There were rows and rows of artifacts that had been found during excavation in Pompeii, including plaster forms of bodies that had been trapped by the six meters of volcanic ash and sand which buried the city.

The girls are being safety conscious, and crossing a "busy" street at the crosswalk. Wagons were built high enough and with big enough wheels to drive between/over the large stones. That way, pedestrians were spared having to walk where the beasts of burden had been.

Here is a Pompeiian fast-food joint. They would serve hot food out of the big, earthenware jars built into the counter--not unlike a first century "Golden Arches" (now introducing a vegetarian menu).

Another food discovery was a combination grain mill and bakery (hmmm...

perhaps our pathetic food choices were begining to take a toll).

The most impressive sight, though, was the ampitheater--where up to 20,000 people used to go to see gladiator battles.
It was also incredible to see how much art had been preserved--like mosaics, statues, and paintings.

After many hours of discoveries, we had finally gotten our fill.

As we left Pompeii, we headed north, and made it as far as Orvieto--about halfway between Rome and Florence. Since our plan was to make it all the way home the next day, we decided that a hotel room (and therefore, a decent night's sleep) was in order.

Italy Trip Day 9

May 20th

The first thing we noticed after waking up on the beach was that we had sand EVERYWHERE! The wind had blown all night, and although the tarp had kept the rain out, it didn't stop the sand. It was in sleeping bags, pajamas, hair, ears, teeth--and I was still finding it in the laundry a week later.

The second thing we noticed was that there was a big, beautiful, blue ocean just wanting to be played in...

But, in your PJs is probably not a great idea...

....now that's better!

The next thing we noticed, is that the big, beautiful, blue ocean is.... cold! But what a fun way to spend a morning!

After packing up, and brushing ourselves off as best we could, we headed north again--just to see what we could see. We stopped in Scalea for a picnic breakfast.

A little further up the coast, we stopped in a town called Aquafredda (which Chuck said means "cold water"--this time we just took their word for it and didn't get in). We took a little hike from the town up the hill to a statue of Maria and a beautiful view of the ocean.

We had a beautiful ride along the coast...

....but later in the day it started raining. Since our goal was to visit Pompeii the next morning, we found a bungalow (fancy word meaning scary, smelly, marginally clean shack with four walls, a roof, indoor plumbing, and--insert hallelujah here!--hot water) not far from Pompeii. I, for one, slept well (and no one woke up with sand in their ears, either!)

Italy Trip Day 8

May 19th

Monday morning, we packed up the car and said goodbye to the Ferraros. One last minute hitch--as we were getting in the car, Salvadore presented us with an entire crate of his tomatoes. Just so everyone knows, when we go on a trip in the car (especially one that involves camping in the car) getting the whole family and all of our neccessary gear to fit is a major feat of planning, engineering, spatial relations, and (occasionaly) brute strength. But, despite the laws of physics and geometry, we couldn't say no to his generous offer. Luckily, Kira is still quite short, and strapped in a kid seat (for only another month or so, as she reminds me often)--and so the crate o' tomatoes ended up under her feet. Now, I am not a raw tomato kind of person. But, I must admit that these ones were delicious--the best tomatoes I have ever eaten! By the time we had made it through four more days of eating foccacia bread and provolone cheese (which just happen to taste great with fresh tomatoes)--we didn't even make it home with enough tomatoes to make a batch of spaghetti!

One more note--before we drove out of Vittoria, we decided to buy some stamps to send a few postcards. Easier said than done, it turns out. By the time we had visited two cigar shops (where they also sell stamps), both of which didn't have the RIGHT stamps, we finally found a post office. It was the most haphazard, chaotic postal experience I have ever had! For starters, they had these special "security doors" that only let one person in and out of the post office at a time. Since the doors weren't quite working right, it took about 1 minute (which can seem like a REALLY long time) for each person to get from one side to the other. When you multiply that by a family of 6, it is a REALLY, REALLY long time. Once we got in, Chuck noticed that the "take-a-number" machine was broken. He got in a line. It didn't move. He got in another line. It didn't move either. He then went straight up to the counter (which noone seemed to be put out about) to ask for help. The guy at the counter stopped helping the customer he was with, and decided to help Chuck instead (which, again, noone seemed to find out of the ordinary). Unfortunately, not only did that postal worker not have the right stamps, but the other register was broken, and couldn't be opened. So, after taking another 10 minutes to get us all back out of the post office, we finally went back to the first cigar shop and spent 2 Euros extra for the WRONG stamps. It was quite the adventure, a lesson in patience, and a reminder that I should be VERY grateful that I live in an organized country where it doesn't take me half the day to buy a stamp.

From Vittoria we headed north-east toward the ferry at the Straight of Messina. Before we leave Sicily, here are just a few pictures that (I think) capture the flavor of a disorganized, but sometimes beautiful place, that I couldn't help but feel that time has somehow forgotten.

At the straights of Messina, we drove onto the ferry (and saw a train drive onto the same ferry!) It was not a long ride, but pretty choppy--we were feeling rather queasy by the time we got off at the toe of Italy's boot. While on the ferry, we got to go up front and watch the "captain" at work. We also ate a tasty Sicilian treat, Arancini--which are fried rice balls, filled with meat and/or vegetables.

Once back on the mainland, we headed up the west coast, enjoying the scenery--scouting out for a good place to spend the night. Since it wasn't tourist season, we were able to find a deserted beach, put up our deluxe lean-to accommodations, and call it a night.